…insights from an OK cross country skier.
During my first week on the PCT I thought about poling a ton. And now I’m bringing my trail ruminations to you, dear reader!
Growing up in Minnesota, I’ve been cross country skiing since I was barely able to walk. As an adult, I’ve benefited from some cross country ski coaching which has involved significant focus on technique.
I also dabble in thru hiking and ultrarunning. This post is to my friends in both of these communities: you can be applying more power with your poles and expending less energy while doing so. If interested in learning, keep reading below..
Why use poles it all?
Good question. Poles are a personal thing and some don’t use them. They aren’t strictly necessary. I don’t use poles on flowy non-technical trail, but when the terrain is slow and technical, I reach for them.
I use poles for four reasons. First, many lightweight shelters require poles for set up. Second, a third point of contact can be really nice when negotiating no-fall zones, stream crossings, or other challenging stuff. Third, there’s a body of research out there showing that use of poles distributes the load away from just your legs to involve more upper body. This results in fresher legs at the end of the day. You also avoid finishing your thru hike looking like a T-Rex, not having used your arms for months. And finally, there’s also research out there suggesting that for certain terrain poles lower your energy output. And I’m all for taking the lazy approach.
Getting started
First, let’s grip the pole. This will be easy if you have no pole straps -just grip the things! If you do have straps, put your hand through the loop from below, then grab the handle. If you put your hand through the loop from above, it will do nothing for you. I have straps, but I generally only use them on steep ascents. What they allow you to do is push down into the strap as you finish applying power. After applying power, you can let go of the pole for a portion of a second. Letting go of the pole allows your tense arm, back, and core muscles to enjoy a brief but critical phase of recovery before poling again.
Where on the ground should I pole?
While poling you want maximum purchase. Scan the ground with your eyes, looking for dirt, sand or soil. These are your targets where the pole will sink in and you’ll get a lot of power. If you pole on a rock or a root, it may stick, but it may also slip out from under you, which is obviously undesirable. Not only that, it’s likely to leave scars on rocks and roots, which we want to minimize as LNTers. If you anticipate doing a lot of travel on rock slabs, consider mounting a hard rubber tip to your pole before your trip.
Poling technique
Flat ground
Stash your poles, use them to scratch your butt, or twirl them around like a baton. They will only cost you energy if you are using them on flat ground. Consider eating, drinking or whatever you want to do with your free hands.
Uphills (grades approximate and depend on the technicality of the trail)
Around 5% grade: here is where I like to use a technique that I call the gallop. I call it that because you’re poling in between foot falls. Try to plant your poles next to, and not ahead of, your feet to minimize braking. It’s hard to describe but I’ve made a video (see below).
Uphill gallop (video by Shredded)
I see a lot of folks polling once for every foot fall and for me that is energetically taxing.
10% grade or higher: this is where we double pole. I generally plant my poles once every four foot falls. Avoid hinging at your waist and instead use your lower abdominals to initiate a crunch that sends your poles into the ground. Applying power should involve your core, your back (especially the traps – the little bat wings on your back), and your arms (triceps in particular). Do all this without overthinking it and you’ll be poling like a pro in no time! See the video on double poling below.
Double pole (video by Shredded)
Downhills
Around 5% grade: I tend to gallop the same as I do for uphills. The difference is I’m trying to absorb a portion of the energy so it doesn’t go entirely into my quads, trashing them. Pole plants extend beyond my feet to allow braking.
Downhill gallop (video by Shredded)
10% grade or higher: I tend to brake as I do at lower downhill grades, but planting both of my poles simultaneously once every four foot falls.
Transitions
Terrain will fluctuate in terms of its grade. Transitioning between techniques effectively as the terrain changes will get you a tiny bit further down the trail more efficiently. When you’re hiking 12 hours per day, these transitions can add up to real time and energy savings.
Technical terrain
Sometimes there are enough rocks and roots in the trail to throw off your rhythm. At these times, plant your poles according to where rocks and roots aren’t and let the trail dictate how you should pole.
OK, that’s a lot to think about! My advice would be try not to think about it too much and just play around. The approach outlined above is what I settled on and I hope it works for you too!
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